(801) 367-5785
WELCOME TO www.minipigsforsale.com
If you’re looking for Superior bred piglets and a loving pet, you’ve come to the right place!
Please visit the website www.pamperedpiglets.com we’ll give you the attention and personal service you’ll come to expect and enjoy.
We have some of the worlds smallest teacup pigs for sale!
Best teacup pigs you will find on Google.
Teacup pigs can be wonderful pets, but can also be a disaster if you aren't prepared for or don't know enough about them.
It is strongly recommended that you purchase and read a book on keeping teacup pigs so you can help yours be the best pet possible.
Teacup pigs weight range at one year of age is 20-50 lbs. with non neutered males ranging up to 40 lbs. The maximum shoulder height at twelve months old is 15 inches.
Colors can be black, white, silver,red, and spotted or any combination of those. The spotted pigs are usually Juliana pigs and usually are more expensive.
Pigs can gain weight quickly if overfed, You also want to beware of ads claiming an unbelievable small size because they are often underfed, immature and unhealthy. Make sure you feed the micro pigs the proper amount.
Disposition is generally the same for male and female if both are neutered/spayed. Attitude problems usually come from intact pigs and pigs that were not trained or socialized properly. It is best to neuter the piglets early (as soon as 6 weeks). It is less expensive and easier for the veterinarian because of less fat layers to cut through. Also the more fat the teacup pigs are, the more prone to anesthesia problems they are. Anesthesia drugs accumulate in the fat so more drug may be needed to induce the pig, but then it takes longer for the drug to metabolize from the body because it sits in the fat for a long time. There is also a chance of an non neutered pig to "forget" house training while they are in heat.
Teacup pigs are very intelligent, easy to train and are very sociable. They form strong bonds with the family as well as with other pets because they live in herds and will consider the rest of the "family" part of his herd.
They slow down as they mature and require less of attention and they won't drag as much on a leash!
They rarely get fleas or lice because of their sparse hair. They tend to be very clean animals. They tend to go to potty in one place and won't potty near their bedding. Their feces contains less ammonium compounds than does cats, so their litter box won't smell as bad.
They tend to live 10-15 years.
Most problems are only a problem because owners were drawn-in by the "cuteness" of the little piggies and weren't prepared for the real-life care that goes with them.
Teacup Pigs need a lot of time. They don't do well if left alone for long periods. Because they are very social and intelligent they need to be with other animals and/or people. They can become bored and destructive if left for very long time just like any other pet. They also can become depressed and unhappy if left for long. You must have a caretaker for the pig when you go on vacation.
Feeding a Teacup pig is cheap and easy to find.
To be a good pet, the teacup pig must be trained. Some problems encountered with improper or no training include: aggressiveness, biting, charging, damaging furniture, excessive squealing but again just like any pet without proper caring.
They don't do well on hard floors and they are sloppy eaters. They like to root and browse so you need to keep them busy with this behavior (this will be discussed later).
TRAINING
It is not the purpose of this booklet to teach you how to train your pig. I strongly recommend you buy a book to properly train your Teacup pig.
Never be harsh with training. Teacup Pigs do not respond to power struggles. They best learn by kindness and a little food! Use a lot of praise and never let coming to you be negative. Just like dogs, they learn from the present not the past so don't scold them for making a mess two hours
ago!
NUTRITION
Teacup Pigs are omnivores which means they will eat plant and animal. They love fruits and vegetable.
Remember, and underfed pig can be just as unhealthy as on overfed pig. Do not listen to some peoples belief that if you only feed it a little the pig will stay "small". This is as ridiculous as saying if you only feed a baby a little it will stay small. Yes, it may be small, but only because it is malnourished!
Feed a pigchow that is specifically for "exotic" pigs. ( makes sure you specify "Teacup pig" or you will get a commercial feed that is made to make pigs fat!).
Pigs root because they are hungry (for the most part). Giving them plenty of fruits and
vegetables will keep them satisfied without putting excess weight on them. Never give them chocolate...it can be poisonous to them.
Feed according to instructions on the bag, but the rule-of-thumb is to feed about 3% of their body weight in food, and divide this into 3-4 feedings a day while a piglet and 2-3 when an adult.
Never feed just once a day. Mazuri has three kinds of feed: Starter- piglets <2 mos,
Grower- 2 mos-breeder age, and Breeder-for breeding adults. Check the other brands to see if they have different stages of feed.
Pigs love to graze on grass. This also helps provide for their special mineral needs. This is why they are not very good apartment pets. They love to be outdoors grazing and rooting and if not provided for, can become sad pets.
HEALTH
The following are signs of sickness in a pig:
-runny eyes/nose
-excessive snorting/wheezing
-diarrhea
-repeated vomiting
-swelling, sores, abrasions
-bloody stools
-lameness
-seizures
-emaciation/anorexia
-reproductive failure
Please call your veterinarian if your Teacup pig exhibits any of these signs. Also, find a veterinarian that specializes in exotic pigs. A commercial pig veterinarian may be adequate but if your pig really gets sick he may not know how to properly treat the pig. These pigs do have some special concerns when dealing with their health.
The best way to prevent illness is to keep their bedding and surrounding clean. Clean the litter box every day and the bedding as needed.
Teacup Pigs do not sweat and don't have fur to keep them warm or cool. They are very susceptible to heat stroke. You must provide a wading pool for temperatures over 80F and you must provide warm shelter/bedding for temperatures under 50F.
Pigs can become stressed easily. There is a condition called Porcine Stress Syndrome. They become frantic, respiration and heart rate increase, they become severely overheated and eventually go into shock and can die. Cause of stress can include: overcrowding, lack of bedding, malnutrition, bullying, lack of exercise, boredom, fright, excessive disturbances, unwanted petting, confinement, transportation, lack of rooting facility, and inadequate chewing potential. Not all of these will cause Porcine Stress Syndrome, but over time they all can contribute to an unhealthy, unhappy Teacup pig.
Eyes- Pigs can have a condition called entropion. This means inverted eyelid.
The lashes rub against the cornea and conjunctiva and can cause suffering
and permanent damage if not surgically repaired when noticed. Micro Pigs do not have eyesight. They use their keen hearing more than their eyes.
Ears- They need to be cleaned with alcohol or peroxide and cottonballs. Never
put a Q-tip in their ear canal. Cleaning once a week is sufficient.
Skin- Check the folds of their skin regularly for parasites (esp. ticks) and sores.
Pigs can and love to be bathes with a mild shampoo.
Teeth- Try to clean their teeth once a week with a wet brush or washcloth. The
tusks need to be trimmed by a veterinarian.
Hooves- Hooves will grow like fingernails. In a young pig, they can be filed with an
emery board and when they get older they may need to be trimmed. A veterinarian can show you how to do this.
The likelihood of parasites is low if kept clean and not exposed to other pigs or livestock. Simple remedies are sold for de-worming. First consult your veterinarian.
Along with hyperthermia, pigs can get sunburned, so give your pet plenty of shade or indoor relief from the sun. Signs of hyperthermia include: vomiting, collapsing, glassy eyes and shock. If this happens, immerse the pig in cool water or cover with wet cool towels, then call your veterinarian.
PREPARING FOR YOUR TEACUP PIG
The following is a list of what you will need for your pet Teacup pig:
1. A pet carrier to bring him home
2. An outdoor shelter with hay/straw and good ventilation
3. An exercise area: the larger, the less damage to soil and vegetation
4. A secure fence that he can't get under
5. Crate for inside
6. Litterbox/liter- pine bedding is best
a· no cedar-type, its toxic
7. Wading pool for outside
a· must be sturdy
b· must have a slope
8. Child gates
9. Bed- blankets, sleeping bag
10. Toys- stuffed animals, balls, boxes with newspaper ( for rummaging) soda bottles,
rawhides, squeaky toys
11. Grooming brush
a· rubber horse type
12. Hoof conditioner
13. Spray bottle with glycerin/water mixture for skin
14. Food
You will need to pig-proof your house. Do the same as if baby-proofing a house. Hide electrical wires, remove toxic plants and chemicals from reach, secure cupboards, remove plastic bags,small toys, buttons scissors, needles, pins, aluminum foil, light bulbs and anything else you would move if you were bringing a toddler home. Remember pigs are pigs and will do just about anything to get to food. They will tip the garbage, get into cupboards, anything if they think they'll get food. So keep this in mind when preparing your home. Later you can get a good book and train your pig not to get into food areas!
I hope this information has helped you prepare for your new teacup piglet. I wish you the best and know you will have hours of enjoyment with your new pet. Please be sure to go to www.pamperedpiglets.com to reserve your very own teacup pig now.
Google search for teacup pigs.
Click here for our mini pigs photo gallery
Home
